Insight 17

Can hair that has stopped growing grow again?

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A thin or bare-looking area raises a practical question: how much hair can it produce again? The answer depends on why the hair became less visible and what remains of the follicles.

Finer hairs, longer gaps between hairs and permanent follicle loss lead to different expectations. Establishing which process is present gives the treatment goal a useful meaning.

Growth requires working cells and signals

Hair follicles contain stem cells that help renew the structures needed for each growth cycle. Wnt signaling is required to start and maintain hair growth. Research established its role in follicle development and later in adult growth.1,2

Having stem cells present does not establish that they are producing a new hair. The cells need the signals and surrounding conditions that allow them to act.

Experimental studies have shown how stress hormones and age-associated inflammation can interfere with stem-cell activity. These findings explain biological possibilities. Establishing the cause of an individual's loss still requires their history and scalp findings.3,4

Aging can change the cells' output

Research on follicle aging has shown a shift away from making hair toward making surface skin cells. This contributes to loss of the follicle's ability to renew itself.5

That process differs from a longer interval between hairs. Scarring can destroy the follicle through another process. A claim about activating stem cells needs to identify which biological problem the treatment addresses and what happened to hair growth in patients.

The same bare-looking area can reflect different states of the follicles beneath it.

A longer gap reduces visible coverage

After a hair is shed, there can be a gap before its replacement appears. This interval is called kenogen. A longer gap leaves fewer visible hairs even before changes in thickness are considered.6

Our research introduced Prolonged Kenogen State, or PKS, to study persistent absence of production from a follicular unit, a small natural group of follicles. It distinguishes renewed production from thickening of hairs already present. Its proposed duration thresholds require further validation.7

Following the same sites helps establish where production has returned. Fuller coverage can reflect thicker hairs, renewed production or both.

Make the expected recovery specific

A permanently destroyed follicle no longer produces hair. Surviving follicles can still contribute to coverage. The examination helps frame whether treatment aims to preserve those hairs, increase their thickness or encourage renewed production.

A realistic goal should name the area and the change being sought. That gives follow-up a clear task. It also helps distinguish meaningful improvement from a broad promise to restore every missing hair.

Author disclosure

Peter R. Feldman is a coauthor of reference 7 and an inventor of ALRV5XR.

References

  1. Andl T, Reddy ST, Gaddapara T, Millar SE. WNT signals are required for the initiation of hair follicle development. Dev Cell. 2002;2:643-653. doi:10.1016/S1534-5807(02)00167-3. Return to text ↑
  2. Myung PS, Takeo M, Ito M, Atit RP. Epithelial Wnt ligand secretion is required for adult hair follicle growth and regeneration. J Invest Dermatol. 2013;133:31-41. doi:10.1038/jid.2012.230. Return to text ↑
  3. Choi S, Zhang B, Ma S, et al. Corticosterone inhibits GAS6 to govern hair follicle stem-cell quiescence. Nature. 2021;592:428-432. doi:10.1038/s41586-021-03417-2. Return to text ↑
  4. Doles J, Storer M, Cozzuto L, Roma G, Keyes WM. Age-associated inflammation inhibits epidermal stem cell function. Genes Dev. 2012;26:2144-2153. doi:10.1101/gad.192294.112. Return to text ↑
  5. Matsumura H, Mohri Y, Binh NT, et al. Hair follicle aging is driven by transepidermal elimination of stem cells via COL17A1 proteolysis. Science. 2016;351:aad4395. doi:10.1126/science.aad4395. Return to text ↑
  6. Rebora A, Guarrera M. Kenogen. A new phase of the hair cycle? Dermatology. 2002;205:108-110. doi:10.1159/000063908. Return to text ↑
  7. Feldman PR, Donovan J, Westgate GE, et al. Prolonged Kenogen State (PKS) in Human Scalp Hair Loss: Separating Follicular-Unit Reactivation from Miniaturization Reversal. JAAD Reviews. Published online September 21, 2026. doi:10.1016/j.jdrv.2026.09.005. Return to text ↑

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